Back

Guides

Community created guides, helpful strategies, and more.
TOPIC | Making and Formatting Skins & Accents
1 2 3 4
Hello there! I've been watching the skin contest entries since the very first Brightshine Jubilee skin contest, and I've noticed some common, simple mistakes being made that disqualify skins and accents for judging. So, I've put together this guide on how to format your skins and accents properly so they can be judged! Sorry for a lack of screenshots, I'm happy to add them if folks would like, but I'm hoping this guide is clear enough without them.

First off, I'm going to explain how skins and accents actually work with Flight Rising's dragon images. Skins and accents are layered on top of the existing images of dragons – the lineart and shading of the dragon below has no effect on the skin or accent, as they're saved as flat images. This means that submitting a skin or accent without lineart or shading will not receive them when it's applied to a dragon.

Also, a little clarification about skin contests; you don't need a blueprint to enter! You just need to post a 350x350 transparent .png of your skin or accent. If you win, the skin or accent will be made into an official site item without you paying a penny.

Note: I'll be referring to some keyboard shortcuts in this tutorial. I use a Windows machine, so I'll be using ctrl where a Mac user would use cmd – just substitute cmd for ctrl in your head if you're using a Mac. Also, I have never used GIMP or FireAlpaca, so the information I have on them is taken from the internets and not from personal experience. Caveat lector.

To get the blank mannequins for making your skin or accent, go to the 'Custom Skins' tab in the FR sidebar, and then to 'Download PSDs'. There, you'll be able to download zipped .psd files of whichever dragon you want to use. The .psd files are all 750x750 pixels, so they'll need to be resized when you're finished. When you open up the zip you'll find two files; one labeled [species]_[m/f]_dragon.psd, and the other labeled [species]_[m/f]_dragon_elements_friendly.psd.

The difference between these two files is important. If you're using Photoshop Elements, you will not be able to use the non-Elements friendly version. This is because the regular .psd contains layer groups, which are not supported by Photoshop Elements.

Programs that support layer groups:
Photoshop 6 and onwards
Photoshop CS1 and onwards
GIMP 2.71 and onwards
Paint Tool SAI
FireAlpaca 1.0.48 and onwards

So, once you've opened the appropriate file, you'll find one of two layer setups. We'll discuss the non-Elements friendly setup first.
***

Using the Full File

The file contains two layer groups, one labeled 'Accent Parts' (which is hidden by default) and one labeled 'Skin Parts'. The Skin Parts contains layers with colour separations of each part of the dragon, like wings, belly, facial features, etc.

These layers are in a clipping group with the layer at the bottom of the group, labeled 'Base'. This means that no part of the layers in the group will appear outside the silhouette of what's on the Base layer. You can paint on these layers, or you can create a new layer above them, but below the shadow layer, to make a skin. Very simple.

Tip: You can add or remove layers to or from a clipping group with the shortcut ctrl+alt+g in Photoshop, or just ctrl+g in Photoshop Elements. GIMP does not have a clipping group function, so I'll link a workaround tutorial in the post. Paint Tool SAI does not have a shortcut built-in, but instead has a little button labeled 'Clipping Group' in the layers sidebar. In FireAlpaca, you'll have to make a new layer and set it to 'Clipping'. I don't know how to add an existing layer to a clipping group in FireAlpaca – if anyone knows how, let me know and I'll amend this!

To make an accent, you'll be using the Accent Parts group. The layer labeled 'Accent Goes Here' is a clipping group base for the lineart and shading layers above it, so they'll only be visible for the parts of the accent that's on that layer. You don't have to paint directly onto this layer. In fact, if you try to place a layer above it that'll be for part of your accent, that layer will be affected by the clipping group too. So, you can paint your accent on a separate layer or layers and then paste it into your Accent Goes Here layer if that's easier for you.

Note: You'll have to collapse the layer onto the Accent Goes Here layer in Photoshop, as it insists on making new layers for every paste even if the selected layer is empty. To do that, make sure your pasted layer is directly above the Accent layer (it'll be in the cliping group, that's fine) and hit ctrl+e with the pasted layer selected to merge the two. Or, you know, delete the Accent Goes Here layer and use your own layer to make the clipping group.

You can modify the colour of the lineart and shadow layers as long as they're both visibly darker than what's underneath them – don't leave it black if you don't want to! Some accents in particular really suffer with black lineart.
***

Using the Elements-friendly File

With the Photoshop Elements friendly version of the file, you have only what's in the Skin Parts group in the full file. To make a skin, you use the exact same method as with the full file, but to make an accent you need to jump through some hoops. If you're using GIMP, you're going to need to jump through a lot of hoops.

First, make your accent on a separate layer (if you've used multiple layers, save the layers as a separate file before continuing). Collapse all the layers you used in making your accent into a single layer by shift+clicking each layer in your layers window and using ctrl+e in Photoshop, SAI, or by clicking your top layer and using Layer>Merge Down in GIMP and FireAlpaca. Delete all layers but the accent, shadow and lineart layers. Then shift+select the shadow and lineart layers and add them to a clipping group with the accent layer as the base. To do this, see the tip above. You should now have just the accent with the shadow and lineart layers visible only where the accent is.

In GIMP, clipping groups are not an option. To get the accent to work, first collapse your accent's layers, and ctrl+click on that layer to get a selection. Go to Select>Invert or use ctrl+i to invert that selection, then go to the lineart and shadow layers and hit delete to remove everything outside that selection.
***

Formatting for Submission

Flight Rising requires all skin and accent submissions to be 350x350 pixels in size, in .png format, and to have transparency. Flight Rising cannot strip out a white background if you've saved without transparency, so remember to check! If you've made an accent, be sure to hide or delete the Skin Parts group below it, or it'll be visible when you save it.

When saving, I recommend keeping a full-size .psd of your working file so you can make modifications as needed. Then, save a .png of your full-sized version. Open that .png, and resize it to 350x350 pixels. Save that version as a separate .png, keeping your full-sized .png as well. (You don't strictly need to keep your full-sized .png, but a lot of people like showing full-sized images of skins and accents as well as their 350x350 submission).

Tip: Keep a consistent naming convention, like 'Fireball Fae F Accent Layers', 'Fireball Fae F Accent 750' and 'Fireball Fae F Accent 350' so you can tell at a glance what your files are.

Resizing Images
In Photoshop, go to Image>Image Size or use ctrl+alt+i, and set the height and width to 350. In SAI, go to Canvas>Change Resolution. In GIMP, go to Image>Scale Image. In FireAlpaca, go to Edit>Image Size.

Saving With Transparency
In Photoshop and GIMP, .png files are automatically saved with transparency. In SAI, you need to select '32bpp ARGB (Each pixel have opacity)' when prompted. In FireAlpaca, select 'transparent .png' when saving.

Making Previews
Everybody loves previews! To make one, find a dragon you like (preferably not wearing apparel – if there's a cool dragon with apparel on it, input its ID into the Scrying Workshop to see it naked), and save its image to your computer. Copy-pasting it will often give you a nasty black background. Open the dragon's image and your 350x350 transparent .png, and copy your accent and paste it into the dragon you want to preview it on.

In Photoshop Elements, pre-CS5 versions of Photoshop, SAI, GIMP and FireAlpaca you'll have to nudge the image around to get it to line up, but in Photoshop CS5 and onwards there's a handy command called 'Paste in Place'. This will paste a copied image into exactly the same location as it was in the original file. To do so, go to Edit>Paste Special>Paste in Place, or use ctrl+shift+v.

Now you have a transparent 350x350 pixel skin or accent, upload it to the file host of your choice (I usually use imgur.com, but you can use any you like). If you're submitting your skin or accent to a contest, post the image in the contest thread using the tags [ img ]image url[ /img ] (without the spaces). If you're submitting it directly to the site with an existing blueprint, you don't need to upload it to the web. Just go to the Upload Submissions tab under the Custom Skins page.
***

I hope that helped clear some things up! Let me know if you'd like something clarified, or if I've made an egregious error with regards to GIMP or FireAlpaca. I tried to be as concise and simple as possible, but feedback on how to make this less of a wall of text would also be much appreciated. Also, @QueenParda has made a guide on how to do this with Clip Studio Paint, also called Manga Studio, and Paint.NET here.

@crowcorvidae has also made an excellent list of general-purpose suggestions for making skins and accents here.
Hello there! I've been watching the skin contest entries since the very first Brightshine Jubilee skin contest, and I've noticed some common, simple mistakes being made that disqualify skins and accents for judging. So, I've put together this guide on how to format your skins and accents properly so they can be judged! Sorry for a lack of screenshots, I'm happy to add them if folks would like, but I'm hoping this guide is clear enough without them.

First off, I'm going to explain how skins and accents actually work with Flight Rising's dragon images. Skins and accents are layered on top of the existing images of dragons – the lineart and shading of the dragon below has no effect on the skin or accent, as they're saved as flat images. This means that submitting a skin or accent without lineart or shading will not receive them when it's applied to a dragon.

Also, a little clarification about skin contests; you don't need a blueprint to enter! You just need to post a 350x350 transparent .png of your skin or accent. If you win, the skin or accent will be made into an official site item without you paying a penny.

Note: I'll be referring to some keyboard shortcuts in this tutorial. I use a Windows machine, so I'll be using ctrl where a Mac user would use cmd – just substitute cmd for ctrl in your head if you're using a Mac. Also, I have never used GIMP or FireAlpaca, so the information I have on them is taken from the internets and not from personal experience. Caveat lector.

To get the blank mannequins for making your skin or accent, go to the 'Custom Skins' tab in the FR sidebar, and then to 'Download PSDs'. There, you'll be able to download zipped .psd files of whichever dragon you want to use. The .psd files are all 750x750 pixels, so they'll need to be resized when you're finished. When you open up the zip you'll find two files; one labeled [species]_[m/f]_dragon.psd, and the other labeled [species]_[m/f]_dragon_elements_friendly.psd.

The difference between these two files is important. If you're using Photoshop Elements, you will not be able to use the non-Elements friendly version. This is because the regular .psd contains layer groups, which are not supported by Photoshop Elements.

Programs that support layer groups:
Photoshop 6 and onwards
Photoshop CS1 and onwards
GIMP 2.71 and onwards
Paint Tool SAI
FireAlpaca 1.0.48 and onwards

So, once you've opened the appropriate file, you'll find one of two layer setups. We'll discuss the non-Elements friendly setup first.
***

Using the Full File

The file contains two layer groups, one labeled 'Accent Parts' (which is hidden by default) and one labeled 'Skin Parts'. The Skin Parts contains layers with colour separations of each part of the dragon, like wings, belly, facial features, etc.

These layers are in a clipping group with the layer at the bottom of the group, labeled 'Base'. This means that no part of the layers in the group will appear outside the silhouette of what's on the Base layer. You can paint on these layers, or you can create a new layer above them, but below the shadow layer, to make a skin. Very simple.

Tip: You can add or remove layers to or from a clipping group with the shortcut ctrl+alt+g in Photoshop, or just ctrl+g in Photoshop Elements. GIMP does not have a clipping group function, so I'll link a workaround tutorial in the post. Paint Tool SAI does not have a shortcut built-in, but instead has a little button labeled 'Clipping Group' in the layers sidebar. In FireAlpaca, you'll have to make a new layer and set it to 'Clipping'. I don't know how to add an existing layer to a clipping group in FireAlpaca – if anyone knows how, let me know and I'll amend this!

To make an accent, you'll be using the Accent Parts group. The layer labeled 'Accent Goes Here' is a clipping group base for the lineart and shading layers above it, so they'll only be visible for the parts of the accent that's on that layer. You don't have to paint directly onto this layer. In fact, if you try to place a layer above it that'll be for part of your accent, that layer will be affected by the clipping group too. So, you can paint your accent on a separate layer or layers and then paste it into your Accent Goes Here layer if that's easier for you.

Note: You'll have to collapse the layer onto the Accent Goes Here layer in Photoshop, as it insists on making new layers for every paste even if the selected layer is empty. To do that, make sure your pasted layer is directly above the Accent layer (it'll be in the cliping group, that's fine) and hit ctrl+e with the pasted layer selected to merge the two. Or, you know, delete the Accent Goes Here layer and use your own layer to make the clipping group.

You can modify the colour of the lineart and shadow layers as long as they're both visibly darker than what's underneath them – don't leave it black if you don't want to! Some accents in particular really suffer with black lineart.
***

Using the Elements-friendly File

With the Photoshop Elements friendly version of the file, you have only what's in the Skin Parts group in the full file. To make a skin, you use the exact same method as with the full file, but to make an accent you need to jump through some hoops. If you're using GIMP, you're going to need to jump through a lot of hoops.

First, make your accent on a separate layer (if you've used multiple layers, save the layers as a separate file before continuing). Collapse all the layers you used in making your accent into a single layer by shift+clicking each layer in your layers window and using ctrl+e in Photoshop, SAI, or by clicking your top layer and using Layer>Merge Down in GIMP and FireAlpaca. Delete all layers but the accent, shadow and lineart layers. Then shift+select the shadow and lineart layers and add them to a clipping group with the accent layer as the base. To do this, see the tip above. You should now have just the accent with the shadow and lineart layers visible only where the accent is.

In GIMP, clipping groups are not an option. To get the accent to work, first collapse your accent's layers, and ctrl+click on that layer to get a selection. Go to Select>Invert or use ctrl+i to invert that selection, then go to the lineart and shadow layers and hit delete to remove everything outside that selection.
***

Formatting for Submission

Flight Rising requires all skin and accent submissions to be 350x350 pixels in size, in .png format, and to have transparency. Flight Rising cannot strip out a white background if you've saved without transparency, so remember to check! If you've made an accent, be sure to hide or delete the Skin Parts group below it, or it'll be visible when you save it.

When saving, I recommend keeping a full-size .psd of your working file so you can make modifications as needed. Then, save a .png of your full-sized version. Open that .png, and resize it to 350x350 pixels. Save that version as a separate .png, keeping your full-sized .png as well. (You don't strictly need to keep your full-sized .png, but a lot of people like showing full-sized images of skins and accents as well as their 350x350 submission).

Tip: Keep a consistent naming convention, like 'Fireball Fae F Accent Layers', 'Fireball Fae F Accent 750' and 'Fireball Fae F Accent 350' so you can tell at a glance what your files are.

Resizing Images
In Photoshop, go to Image>Image Size or use ctrl+alt+i, and set the height and width to 350. In SAI, go to Canvas>Change Resolution. In GIMP, go to Image>Scale Image. In FireAlpaca, go to Edit>Image Size.

Saving With Transparency
In Photoshop and GIMP, .png files are automatically saved with transparency. In SAI, you need to select '32bpp ARGB (Each pixel have opacity)' when prompted. In FireAlpaca, select 'transparent .png' when saving.

Making Previews
Everybody loves previews! To make one, find a dragon you like (preferably not wearing apparel – if there's a cool dragon with apparel on it, input its ID into the Scrying Workshop to see it naked), and save its image to your computer. Copy-pasting it will often give you a nasty black background. Open the dragon's image and your 350x350 transparent .png, and copy your accent and paste it into the dragon you want to preview it on.

In Photoshop Elements, pre-CS5 versions of Photoshop, SAI, GIMP and FireAlpaca you'll have to nudge the image around to get it to line up, but in Photoshop CS5 and onwards there's a handy command called 'Paste in Place'. This will paste a copied image into exactly the same location as it was in the original file. To do so, go to Edit>Paste Special>Paste in Place, or use ctrl+shift+v.

Now you have a transparent 350x350 pixel skin or accent, upload it to the file host of your choice (I usually use imgur.com, but you can use any you like). If you're submitting your skin or accent to a contest, post the image in the contest thread using the tags [ img ]image url[ /img ] (without the spaces). If you're submitting it directly to the site with an existing blueprint, you don't need to upload it to the web. Just go to the Upload Submissions tab under the Custom Skins page.
***

I hope that helped clear some things up! Let me know if you'd like something clarified, or if I've made an egregious error with regards to GIMP or FireAlpaca. I tried to be as concise and simple as possible, but feedback on how to make this less of a wall of text would also be much appreciated. Also, @QueenParda has made a guide on how to do this with Clip Studio Paint, also called Manga Studio, and Paint.NET here.

@crowcorvidae has also made an excellent list of general-purpose suggestions for making skins and accents here.
qP8Ki8g.png
@JackalBones

Hello! I'm in love with your guide the tips were very helpful (and I learned something useful in Sai that I had not known previous to your guide).

However, one thing with skins and accents that have confused me is shadow/lineart alteration. As you may know, many skins and accents have done this, such as the Kitedancer skin (Mistral Jamboree) and Sculpted (Crystalline Gala) come to mind.

Would you know the rules with altering them? Have these rules changed since these skins have been added to the site and may no longer be altered?

Thank you for your time in reading this! ^^
@JackalBones

Hello! I'm in love with your guide the tips were very helpful (and I learned something useful in Sai that I had not known previous to your guide).

However, one thing with skins and accents that have confused me is shadow/lineart alteration. As you may know, many skins and accents have done this, such as the Kitedancer skin (Mistral Jamboree) and Sculpted (Crystalline Gala) come to mind.

Would you know the rules with altering them? Have these rules changed since these skins have been added to the site and may no longer be altered?

Thank you for your time in reading this! ^^
@Kikatzu
Thank you very much! You are most kind, I'm glad it could help.

Regarding lineart and shading alterations, you're not allowed to change the actual shape of the lineart and shadow layers, or place anything on top of them that could obscure them. They have to be visible - Kitedancer achieves this by making the lineart and shading very light, but not invisible, so it looks like those parts aren't there even though they are.

Sculpted actually breaks the rules, as some parts of the lineart and shading are either too light to be seen or removed entirely. It got through because the judges didn't notice until too late, and by the time they realised the skin was already publically available, so there was nothing to be done.

Hope that cleared things up! Let me know if you'd like clarification.
@Kikatzu
Thank you very much! You are most kind, I'm glad it could help.

Regarding lineart and shading alterations, you're not allowed to change the actual shape of the lineart and shadow layers, or place anything on top of them that could obscure them. They have to be visible - Kitedancer achieves this by making the lineart and shading very light, but not invisible, so it looks like those parts aren't there even though they are.

Sculpted actually breaks the rules, as some parts of the lineart and shading are either too light to be seen or removed entirely. It got through because the judges didn't notice until too late, and by the time they realised the skin was already publically available, so there was nothing to be done.

Hope that cleared things up! Let me know if you'd like clarification.
qP8Ki8g.png
@Jackalbones

Thank you, this was really helpful and answers a lot of the questions I've been having.

There's one thing which I'm still not particularly clear on, though: how exactly are the staff defining 'dark' when it comes to the lineart and shading? Is it more about the brightness of the colors in question, or just the saturation/intensity? I've seen a few accents which redo part or all of the lineart in other colors or even rainbow- the outlines are definitely visible (if anything, they 'pop' more than the default) but some of the hues I remember people using are things like yellow which are not exactly dark colors.
@Jackalbones

Thank you, this was really helpful and answers a lot of the questions I've been having.

There's one thing which I'm still not particularly clear on, though: how exactly are the staff defining 'dark' when it comes to the lineart and shading? Is it more about the brightness of the colors in question, or just the saturation/intensity? I've seen a few accents which redo part or all of the lineart in other colors or even rainbow- the outlines are definitely visible (if anything, they 'pop' more than the default) but some of the hues I remember people using are things like yellow which are not exactly dark colors.
@Troubletail
To my knowledge, 'dark' in relation to lineart and shading refers to 'darker than what's below it'. So even if the colour used is objectively light, it's acceptable as long as it's on top of a colour that's lighter. Does that make sense?
@Troubletail
To my knowledge, 'dark' in relation to lineart and shading refers to 'darker than what's below it'. So even if the colour used is objectively light, it's acceptable as long as it's on top of a colour that's lighter. Does that make sense?
qP8Ki8g.png
@JackalBones

Hopefully you could be of help on this, but do you know how some accents manage to be transparent? Like Dracolich for example? I'm trying to do a 'Battle Torn' accent where part of my dragons wing is torn out but I can't for the life of me figure out how to manage this feat =w=;;
@JackalBones

Hopefully you could be of help on this, but do you know how some accents manage to be transparent? Like Dracolich for example? I'm trying to do a 'Battle Torn' accent where part of my dragons wing is torn out but I can't for the life of me figure out how to manage this feat =w=;;
Candles, Pandas, Oh My! (A niche little hatchery)
@Arazamatazza
Those are made by making the 'transparent' parts white, and tinting the shadows and lineart so they're only just dark enough to be seen. On Dracolich, where the opposite wing is shown through some of the holes, that was achieved by using a low-transparency black or whatever shadow colour it used. Let me know if that makes sense - if not I'll try and explain it better.
@Arazamatazza
Those are made by making the 'transparent' parts white, and tinting the shadows and lineart so they're only just dark enough to be seen. On Dracolich, where the opposite wing is shown through some of the holes, that was achieved by using a low-transparency black or whatever shadow colour it used. Let me know if that makes sense - if not I'll try and explain it better.
qP8Ki8g.png
@JackalBones

The first part makes sense, but the second part I'm unsure of-

I'd have to create a low transparency black-ish layer and place it wherever the missing part of the wing and the dragon overlap (in this case it'd be the back part of the male SD's wing)?

Would I have to erase part of the base and put the transparent layer over that or just put the transparent layer somewhere over the base and it will automatically show my dragons colors through the tear?
@JackalBones

The first part makes sense, but the second part I'm unsure of-

I'd have to create a low transparency black-ish layer and place it wherever the missing part of the wing and the dragon overlap (in this case it'd be the back part of the male SD's wing)?

Would I have to erase part of the base and put the transparent layer over that or just put the transparent layer somewhere over the base and it will automatically show my dragons colors through the tear?
Candles, Pandas, Oh My! (A niche little hatchery)
@Arazamatazza Yep, that's right. Because it's an accent, only the low-transparency black would show there. You'd want that part to be just the transparency, no base layer or anything like that. [img]http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w404/tectiform/dracolichfinal2.png[/img] [img]http://items.kanojo.de/images/skins/6689.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/NId5cxr.png[/img] Here's Dracolich, followed by Tec's original image for it. then finally what that image looks like in Photoshop. You can see where the holes overlap with the wing behind and it shows the colour through, but darker - that's just the low-transparency black, there's no base colour underneath it. Hope that helps!
@Arazamatazza
Yep, that's right. Because it's an accent, only the low-transparency black would show there. You'd want that part to be just the transparency, no base layer or anything like that.
dracolichfinal2.png
6689.png
NId5cxr.png
Here's Dracolich, followed by Tec's original image for it. then finally what that image looks like in Photoshop. You can see where the holes overlap with the wing behind and it shows the colour through, but darker - that's just the low-transparency black, there's no base colour underneath it. Hope that helps!
qP8Ki8g.png
@JackalBones

Aww awesome, thank you so much!!
@JackalBones

Aww awesome, thank you so much!!
Candles, Pandas, Oh My! (A niche little hatchery)
1 2 3 4